What if Christmas were celebrated in Provence this year?

Pleasure, charm and sweetness. These are the terms that could define Provence. In summer, this magnificent region dresses in its finest colours, offering splendid landscapes to admire to the gentle sound of cicadas. Each year, Provence attracts no fewer than 35 million French and foreign tourists, mainly during the months of July and August.

Nevertheless, the region has just as many wonders to offer in the middle of winter. Indeed, this region is really defined by its traditions and its terroir: particularly during the Christmas period. From the Christmas market where thousands of santons are displayed to midnight mass, via the gros souper with its 13 desserts, Provence offers a multitude of specialities, each as surprising as the next, for the end-of-year festivities.

• The crib and its santons:

Who has never heard of Provençal santons? These very colourful little clay figurines, representing the Nativity scene with of course the infant Jesus, the Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph, the Three Wise Men and the vergers, but also all the inhabitants of the village and their traditional trades. This tradition took root during the Middle Ages, thanks to Francis of Assisi, who in 1223 created the first living crib. Subsequently, the characters were replaced by large statues of wood, wax or glass, perpetuating this religious tradition. After the French Revolution, the “santoun” (little saints) were created in Provence, small clay figurines, so that every household could decorate its crib at Christmas.

In 1803, the first Santon Fair took place in Marseille. Since then, each year from November to January, a great Santon Fair is organised at the top of the Canebière in Marseille, leading to the Old Port. This year, the Fair will take place from 16th November to 31st December on Place Charles-de-Gaulle in Marseille (open every day, from 10am to 7pm).

• The gros souper and the 13 desserts:

The gros souper and the 13 desserts are among the most distinctive traditions during the Christmas period in Provence. Although habits and products differ from one region to another, they always convey the same meanings: the gros souper consists of 7 lean dishes, in remembrance of the 7 sorrows of Mary; and the 13 desserts refer to the 12 apostles of the Last Supper, accompanied by Christ.

The gros souper therefore consists of lean dishes, namely products such as cardoon, cauliflower, spinach and celery, cod, omelette, snails or garlic soup. These dishes never contain meat, only fish, shellfish, vegetables, gratins and soups.

The 13 desserts, for their part, are laid out on a table covered with 3 tablecloths, and remain on this table for 3 days, until 27th December. These desserts are mostly made up of the following foods: the 4 mendicants (dried figs, almonds, raisins and walnuts), the dates (representing Christ who came from the East), black and white nougat, fougasse with olive oil, quince paste or candied fruits, oreillette pastries and fresh fruits (mandarins, oranges, pears, grapes…).

• Midnight mass:

After tasting this meal, villagers have the habit of attending the traditional midnight mass, with its Provençal songs, flutes and tambourines. This mass is sometimes composed of a living crib where all the key characters of the Nativity are represented. It is sometimes possible to attend the Pastrage, this ceremony which consists of offering a newborn lamb carried by a shepherd or placed in a gilded cart. No harm is done to the animal, it simply pays tribute to the birth of the infant Jesus. This ceremony takes place in many Provençal villages, so it is not uncommon to see villagers drumming and singing in the streets on Christmas evening.

• Have you fallen in love with this region?

Have you been charmed by this so pretty and so warm region? One of your greatest dreams would be to live there? Sextant France offers a fantastic selection of properties throughout Provence. Here is a small preview:

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Superbe maison de caractère dating from the 17th century, composed of 13 rooms and located in Les Baux de Provence, on a plot of land of 2.8ha

If you would like to receive more information about our properties, please visit our website, Sextant France, or contact us directly by telephone on 01.70.61.27.15.