The Dunkirk Carnival
The streets invaded by a colourful and joyful crowd whose umbrellas and floral costumes take centre stage – welcome to the Dunkirk Carnival!
The streets invaded by a colourful and joyful crowd whose umbrellas and floral costumes take centre stage – welcome to the Dunkirk Carnival! For nearly three months, the city will live to the spirited rhythm of the festivities. A carnival that makes noise for an event rooted in the cultural heritage of northern France.
But where does this tradition come from?
We need to go back to the 17th century when Dunkirk had just been annexed to the Kingdom of France, previously an English town. The fishermen, who had been in the habit of catching herring in the North Sea, turned to cod fishing, thereby moving away from Dutch competition. They would therefore set off on expeditions for several months of the year from April to September, with no certainty of returning. It was for this reason firstly that they received their wages, and the day before departure, a great feast was organised. As the fishermen were leaving the following day, they were in the habit of borrowing their wives’ clothing.
What does it involve?
Carnival participants take particular pride in dressing up. They spare no creativity in finding their perfect “clet’che” and blending into the colourful, flower-strewn crowd. A rain of “berguenaeres” spreads throughout the streets of the city – these umbrellas are entirely part of Dunkirk folklore. They are also in the colours of the various associations, allowing participants to recognise one another among the crowd. These associations are also the ones who organise this carnival each year.
From the outside, this resembles a great capharnaüm, with this gigantic, huddled crowd, but when you look more closely, there is real organisation present – the carnival participants parade to the rhythm of the drum major at the head, followed by musicians, who indicate the route to follow.
Regularly, carnival participants move away from the procession to join the “chapelles” – these residents’ homes, open to those who want to come and drink and eat in all camaraderie. Balls are organised by the associations for the greatest pleasure of all. Carnival participants also enthusiastically take part in the mayor’s speech in front of the town hall and the tossing of smoked herring – a nod to the fishing of old, trying to catch the plastic lobster tossed by the mayor in exchange for a real lobster! The “rigodon” signals the final hurrah of this carnival and consists of all the carnival tunes being reprised. Very solemn, carnival participants have the habit of kneeling, their hat on their heart.
Why not participate this year in a carnival themed around good humour and experience this camaraderie so cherished by this region?
