The enchanting world of thatched cottages- from rustic dwelling to bijou property

Thatch has come to symbolise the quintessential image of traditional, rural Normandy, synonymous with cosy half timbered farmhouses, ducks and chickens fluttering in courtyards and lush green scenery. However such cottages had rather miserable origins, as exemplified by the Larousse dictionary of the 19th century- a thatched dwelling was considered rather rustic, coarse and strictly for the poor. Windows were often small, thus letting little light in and the ceilings quite low too.

Thatched cottages do however represent a heritage dating back thousands of years. Dwellings are made from simple earthy materials – clay, stone, wood and straw- found locally. Excavations have shown similar timber constructions dating back to 4600 BC, although the design now spotted throughout Normandy dates back to the 14th century.

The weight bearing structure is a succession of frames – poteaux, sabilieres, sommiers, huisseries and colombages- some are horizontal and some are vertical. Oak, elm or poplar are the traditional woods used in construction, as they endure best the wet climate of the area. Generally the roof structure is in an upturned T shape with an overhang known as the Queue de Geai (jay’s tail), which would protect the outside staircase.

The thatcher starts by laying a cover of hazel strips onto the timbers- a process called clayonnage-, working from the bottom of the roof upwards. Sheaves are then laid side by side with the reed head facing upwards, once again from bottom to top. The sheaves must be bundled tightly together, and cut to remain neat. Once bound together the peak of the roof is fastened with clay and planted with irises, strengthening the earth and supplying needed humidity. The thatcher then creates drainage channels and combs the thatch.

One often finds recommendations to change the thatch every 18 or 20 years, but in really they can last up to 30 or 40 years, or maybe even longer, depending on the materials used (water reed, combed wheat or long straw) and the weather! The dryer it is, the longer the thatch will last.

When the time has come to rethatch, the following steps must be undertaken, preferably by someone who knows what they are doing!
Firstly, one needs to remove the damaged thatch from the roof, and place waterproof tarpaulins over it, to shelter it from rain damage when work isn’t being carried out. Accordingly, it is better to arrange the rethatching for the summer months.
If you’re lucky, some of the under layers may still be in good condition (and date back a hundred years or so!). If not, you’ll need to remove them too and cover them with newer reeds. Mixing the new and old thatch is a delicate job, best left to professionals. At first, you’ll notice a difference, as the newer thatch will be lighter in colour, but as it gradually matures you’ll not be able to tell where the twoparts join together.

If you’d simply like to take in some of France’s prettiest dwellings, then a walk along the thatched cottage road is definitely in order. It takes in some of the most picture perfect chocolate box cottages you’ve ever seen, over a 53 kilometre route. Starting at the Maison du Parc de la Brotonne, the walk joins the western edges of the Marais Vernier, meanders along the Seine, then crosses towards Aizier and Vieux-Port. The panoramas along the route are stunning- from the unspoilt villages, farms and manor houses to the churches and chateaux and of course, the thatched cottages themselves.

A few kilometres from the starting point you’ll come across an ancient pre-medieval track, which used to lead to a ford at the river. You’ll then come across Vatteville-la-Rue, a village well worth a proper look due to its rich architectural and archaeological heritage, including several 16th century chapels and churches, the ruins of a castle or two (one with 12th century moat and tower) and traces of Roman villas. The inhabitants of Vatteville were very in touch with nature, as they explored the seas, tilled the land or worked with stone in the nearby quarries.

The Brotonne Forest is next, 6700 hectares of beeches, oaks and conifers. Legend has it that the riverside unloading point and medieval ruins at the perimeter were the seat of a demon guarding a treasure, who would jump on any horseman bold enough to pass at night.
Vieux-Port, a former Roman port, is the definite highlight of the trip, abounding as it is with half-timbered houses and thatched cottages with perfectly manicured gardens and holly hedgerows. On some of the houses you will notice the afore-mentioned irises, planted at the peak of the roofs.

If you’re a cider fan, the aptly named Apple House in Sainte Opportune la Mare will delight you- a 13th century former presbytery now shelters exhibitions where you will discover no less than 50 different varieties of apple, learn about the various stages of cider production, see the cellar where the apparatus is kept, and most importantly, taste various products. The best time to visit is in autumn.

The road then runs through the Vernier marshlands and wildlife reserve, site of its own micro climate and full of unusual fauna and flora. Here there are more thatched buildings to observe made from the local flint and lime. The structures will either be parallel with the slope in the ground or perpendicular, allowing cellar provision for fruit and vegetable storage.
The route ends at the observatory point of the Nature Park. From this vantage spot you can enjoy all the landscapes that make up the Vernier Marshes.

If all this talk of thatched cottages has got you thinking about owning your own French property, then Sextant have several on their books at the moment, for example a stunning cottage set in 7 acres of land with a barn, a bread house, a thatched outbuilding as well as a river with a small island. The house offers 7 bedrooms, is 25 km from Rouen and is on the market for €593,000. Pushing the boat out a bit more, we also have four Norman thatched cottages set in 2.5 acres of land close to Pont-Audemer (40 minutes from Le Havre) priced at €735,000. Three of the cottages are in perfect condition, teeming with period features, and one is left to develop and put your own stamp on.
If you’d like to spread your wings further than Normandy, a traditional cottage near Auxi le Chateau might be ideal. It provides 3 bedrooms, a mature garden, plenty of parking and a wine cellar. On the market for €262,000 it is also perfectly located only an hour from Calais.
If Brittany is where you’d like to settle down, we have a beautiful picture perfect thatched house built in 1550 set in over 6 acres of land with various outbuildings. Priced at €393,000 it is located near Saint-Brieuc. If you’re thinking about opening a gite business and love the sea, then this beautiful guesthouse of three renovated gites is only 5 minutes from the beach near Concarneau. Set in a landscaped garden, the property provides 6 bedrooms altogether and is priced at €388.500.

Thatched cottages are a beautiful example of French architectural heritage. Now considered quite a bijou property, displaying warmth and welcome, thatched dwellings still often deter people due to common misconceptions, including worries about fire safety and insurance. If you know the facts (thatched properties are no more likely to catch fire and there is no reason you can’t have a roaring fire in your fireplace) and use some common sense (shop around for the best insurance deal, if possible with a company who have insured thatched dwellings before) there is no reason why you can’t make one your dream French home.