The Dordogne continues to be a popular place to buy due to its increasingly notable ability to preserve the past. Situated in southwest France, it is made up of four distinct areas described as the Perigord Vert, Perigord Blanc, Perigord Noir and Perigord Pourpre, all of which have a charming attachment to antiquity. The Perigord Vert, in the north, is so called due to its landscape of deep green valleys and trickling streams, the Perigord Blanc meanwhile, in the centre, is rich in quarries full of white stones that are used to make the houses, the Perigord Noir, in the southeast, is abundant in dark oak trees visible for miles and the Perigord Pourpre, in the southwest, is purple through its numerous vineyards. Add to this fabulous scenery, 1001 chateaux and you can begin to get a picture of this beautiful part of France.
A popular legend is that God, whilst distributing chateaux around France, found a hole in his bag when he got to the sky above the Perigord , so he shook out the remaining crumbs and consequently filled the area with an inordinate number of chateaux; the majority being fortified farmhouses with towers or turrets. In reality, these started to develop in the C12th and C13th in the form of square refuge towers (keeps), then in the C14th walls, baileys, courtyards, turrets and intricated entrances were added and in the C15th they boomed, especially as relations were fraught between the Kings of England and France and the Dordogne, as a frontier between their territories, was deemed to require bastide towns and structured defences.
The Dordogne has a long, tumultous history in fact. Boasting one of the earliest civilisations in Europe, as well as fertile lands and a mild climate, it was repeatedly invaded right up until the C20th. Evidence of prehistoric activity can most clearly be seen in the numerous caves dotted around. The caves at Lascaux for example date from approximately 15,000 years. Cro-Magnon Man in particular made himself at home here, inventing stone tools and painting pictures on the cave walls. Then the Neolithic culture, around 4000 BC, was an impressive civilisation. Peaceful, and said to be matriarchal, the people of this period lived in unfortified villages domesticating animals, developing agriculture, studying astronomy and manufacturing tools, pottery, and megalithic monuments. The eras of the Celtics, Romans, Vandals, Visigoths and others then brought the wars.
Today, luckily, it is the more peaceful way of life that is faithfully preserved. The markets are one of the finest examples of this. At around 8am on different days around the numerous villages, old vans slowly roll in and begin to leisurely unload walnuts, geese, truffles and the like, ready to liven up the day. The local produce sold is a reliable country calendar in fact, changing according to the season, and there is no sign of modern mundanities such as receipts, adverts and bar codes. Instead one feels as if they are stepping back in time to the Middle Ages, where this culture truly began.
With regards to buying a house, for a long time the Perigord Pourpre was extremely popular with expats, especially following the opening of Bergerac airport. However, this area soon became expensive as a result and a lot of buyers have since moved further afield, towards the Perigord Noir and Vert where the market is more reasonable and Limoges international airport is nearby. Three wonderfully representative villages of these parts are La Coquille, Excideuil and Salignac, all of which are close to the border of Limousin; another expat hotspot.
Perigord Vert La Coquille is a picture postcard Perigord Vert town that dates back to Roman times. It serves its community and surrounding villages well with all basic amenities: doctor, dentist, post office, bank, butchers, bakers, bars and restaurants in place, a church in the main square and a market every Thursday selling fresh fruit, vegetables, local produce and fish. Popular sports in the spacious green countryside include tennis, horseriding, fishing and golf. A ‘Caleche' (horsedrawn carriage) can also be hired to take in the sights, or even for house hunting, where one can discover beautiful stone houses, including one with 2.4 acres for sale for 137,000 euros (ref: 3424) and another with an attached barn, an 80m2 gite, a 33m2 workshop, an 116m2, 2-storey convertible outbuilding and a swimming pool for sale for 355,000 euros (ref: 2937).
Excideuil is a bustling historical town also set in the Perigord Vert. It has a market every Thursday, several excellent restaurants, narrow streets filled with numerous shops, cafes and C16th houses, and an impressive chateau that dominates the skyline. Nearby Chateau de Hautefort, a stunning Renaissance palace is also nearby and a place of great inspiration. In the C20th, the Baron and Baronness de Bastard spent 39 years restoring it, during which time the Baron died so the Baronness continued alone, finally finishing in 1968. The whole place then went up in flames later that same year, however, after the shock of losing years of work in just one night, the Baronness surprised everyone by starting all over again and, generously helped by locals, managed to achieve her goal. Open to the public, its gardens in particular are immaculate and host numerous events; theatres and workshops for example. A large house in these parts with three acres and a covered swimming pool can be found for sale for 251,200 euros (ref: 2629). Meanwhile, a renovated house with garden, swimming pool, outbuilding and superb views is for sale for 407,800 euros (ref: 3211).
Perigord Noir Salignac leads the way to the Perigord Noir. A prestigious chateau overlooks roofs covered with lauzes (flat stones), followed by the town hall, the school, the Saint Therese chapel, and streets and alleys full of ancient yellow-stone buildings; bars, cafes, shops and restaurants. The village of Eyvigues has also merged with Salignac and is equally picturesque with its preserved plants and flowers, C12th chapel and C16th manor. The pure waters of the surrounding rivers are filled with trout and other fresh-water fish, thus perfect for fishing, and hiking, cycling and horse-riding around the wild open countryside is equally popular. There are also numerous festivals in the summer; particularly at Sarlat le Caneda which is fifteen minutes away. Furthermore, one can rendez-vous with Cro-Magnon in the caves, taking in his impressive artistic skills. As with the Perigord Vert, renovated stone houses start at 150,000 euros; one with a 500m2 garden, original features and a convertible attic is for sale for 155,000 euros (ref: 3268) and those keen to run a business can find a 7-bedroom guesthouse for 385,000 euros (ref: 2741).
This multi-faceted region has managed to remain timeless. Whilst other parts of the world choose to embrace new technologies and ways of life, without much consideration for the past that brought them this far, the Dordogne pays tribute to days gone by, daily showing beauty in its most natural form. For those looking for a peaceful, unpolluted existence this really is an ideal, everlasting place. As the writer, Henry Miller once said: "The trip to the Dordogne was, I repeat, of major importance: I retain a hope for the future of the species, and even of our planet... the Dordogne will survive, just like the dreams that nourish the human soul." (The Colossus of Maroussi).
Perfect in Perigord?